Photos: dry season at Nairobi National Park

Ostrich walk across the dried out grassland of Nairobi National Park, with the city skyline behind them
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya

We visited Nairobi National Park in mid-March, towards the end of the dry season and during a prolonged drought. Over the previous three months, the unforgiving sun had wrung the last drops of moisture out of the vegetation. The grass, where it remained at all, had turned into dry yellow straw. This was clearly affecting the herbivores, which were weak from lack of food and easy prey for predators. Like in Amboseli, we saw lots of dead animals lying by the roadside – some eaten, others left almost untouched. The lions, however, looked well-fed and the vultures were numerous.

My brother Stuart was visiting us in Nairobi, so we went for an early morning drive, meeting Joyce and the kids later. Whether it was due to the early start or the impact of the drought, we saw a large number of lions. They were also more active than on previous visits. In the past, if we saw lions at all, they would be sleeping in the shade of a bush or tree and the most activity we would get was a leg stretch or a yawn.

This time, however, the very first thing we saw was a lion hunt. We stopped at a small lake near the park entrance, where a herd of wildebeest were drinking. Due to the drought, all the remaining water sources were busy with animals throughout the day, creating opportunities for predators. As we were watching the wildebeest, they suddenly started running and jumping out of the water. A lioness sprinted in from the right, trying to catch one before they all scattered.

Here are some of my best photos from the day:

A herd of thirsty wildebeest drink water from one of the two remaining small lakes in Nairobi National Park.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
A lioness runs in from behind some safari vehicles on the right, causing the wildebeest to scatter in alarm.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
The lioness pursued the wildebeest for a minute but was unable to make a catch. As David Attenborough recently reminded us, most hunts end in failure.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
The disappointed lioness watches the wildebeest disappear, before wandering off across the plain.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
An eland, the largest antelope in the world, which can weigh as much as a buffalo. Nairobi National Park has both the largest and smallest antelopes, dik-diks, although we didn’t see any of the latter on this visit.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
A dead wildebeest, killed and partially eaten by lions during the night. The pride was still nearby, guarding their prize.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
A flock of vultures at a safe distance from the dead wildebeest, waiting for the lions to leave.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
A male lion leaves the dead wildebeest, and makes his way towards a shady spot close by, where the pride also has a dead antelope.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
I’ve been trying to get some close-up portraits of safari animals. Here’s a male zebra.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
The same zebra cools off with a “dust bath” by the side of the road.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
A group of rare southern white rhinos graze in one of the few remaining green areas, on a patch of swampy land. White actually means “wide” in Afrikaans, and refers to the wide mouth that the rhinos use for grazing grass. Black rhinos, by contrast, have narrow mouths and prefer to eat leaves from low bushes and trees.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
A giraffe lowers its head to graze on a small tree in Nairobi National Park.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
Portrait #2: a female southern giraffe. You can tell a giraffe’s gender by whether the horns (technically ossicones) are furry, like this one, or bald. The males lose their fur due to frequent head butting.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
A group of zebra drink from the second small lake we visited. This was also busy with animals, including a large pod of hippos and some sleeping crocodiles.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
A marabou stork comes in to land on a small island in the lake.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
We saw a pair of lions that had separated from their pride to mate. At first, they were lying together next to a small bush. Then, the male moved to a larger bush next to a buffalo kill. Here, he is looking back at the female, possibly signalling for her to come and join him.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya
The lioness looks back at the male lion, possibly weighing up the benefits of the new bush.
© Andrew Brown/2023/Kenya

And lastly, here are some photos taken by my son Zefi. He was mainly interested in the lions, but he also took some giraffes photos for his sister Ayla.

Male lion by Zefi – this is the same mating lion as above. The “mohican” style mane is common in this part of Kenya.
© Zephyr Brown/2023/Kenya
Giraffes by Zefi, taken for his sister Ayla. Her two favourite animals are pandas (not native to Kenya) and giraffes.
© Zephyr Brown/2023/Kenya

A few days later, the rainy season began, and by the following weekend our garden – and likely the National Park – was sprouting patches of green grass once again, hopefully providing some respite to the animals we saw.

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